Katahdin

Hiking Katahdin is an extraordinary experience, in every way you can imagine. Physically, its trails — all of them steep, with long stretches of jagged stones and large boulders — will test everybody, even the hardiest mountaineers. It is a sacred mountain for the Penobscot people.

Socially, it’s also unique. So many people make summiting Katahdin a life goal, or yearly goal, that you will might meet interesting people on the trail. Appalachian Trail through-hikers completing their long journey; people overcoming a physical or mental disability; people marking the hike as a life milestone, like a 40th birthday. It also attracts people not used to hiking who aren’t quite up for the task — and they, too, are kind of amazing. Because many of them do finish the hike, even if it takes them 18 hours instead of the average 10. So all that is to say: Hiking Katahdin on a summer weekend could be a social experience to some extent. It’s a very popular mountain. Possibly the shoulder seasons see less traffic?

The mountain, a “monadnock,” rises from the surrounding lowlands majestic and all alone. The scenery and views are beyond-belief gorgeous: The ragged “stegosaurus back” of the Knife Edge, which looks as black and menacing as it is to hike along it. The subalpine plateau between Baxter Peak which, in the summer, is a beautiful melange of delicate burgundy, lime, and pink. The alpine ponds, protected by the mountain’s ridges, which wrap around them like a half-opened shawl. The rocky plateau at the top of the mountain is called the Tableland, with breathtaking views.

The massif of Katahdin has seven peaks. The highest, and the one that gets the most traffic, is Baxter Peak, at 5,267 feet. Then, in order of diminishing size, there is South Peak, 5250 feet; Pamola Peak, 4,904 feet; Chimney Peak, 4,888 feet; Hamlin Peak, 4,752 feet; and South Howe and North Howe peaks, 4,745 feet and 4,704 feet, respectively.

A lot has been written about Katahdin and its trails. Here’s my brief take:

I recommend that families or people not confident about their hiking ability begin from Roaring Brook Campground and hike up the 3.3-mile, gently ascending Chimney Pond Trail to the campground and pond cradled underneath the mountain. The views here are beautiful of Baxter, Pamola, South, and Chimney Peaks. Then, you can continue up the 1-mile Saddle Trail, which is only truly steep and feels a bit treacherous for the last quarter mile. But it is really steep and treacherous for that section, all scree.

Cathedral Trail, 0.9 mile — This trail is short and steep. You will be hauling your body up boulders, hoping you won’t fall into a crevice or fall backwards. There is one rock face that is a bit difficult to clamber up because it’s so smooth. You gain 2,000 feet of elevation in one mile.

The Knife Edge, 1.1 miles — I will never do the Knife Edge because I’m too much of a wimp. It is 1.1 miles along the ridge’s sharp edge, with cliffs plunging off on either side. You need to be sure-footed and brave. Never climb it in inclement weather. The scariest part is the Chimney, which requires climbing while trying not to glance down at plunging cliffs.

Chimney Pond Trail, 3.3 miles — From Roaring Brook, you start off by following the clear waters of the brook. Eventually, you’ll climb gently away from the brook, with two short side trails to views (the first at 1.7 miles, the second, at Basin Ponds, at 2 miles. The pond looks enticingly swimmable.) Then the trail enters an area of lower scrub trees. There are great bridges, but it can be wet. At 2.3 miles, you’ll pass a cut-off to Hamlin Ridge Trail. The trail gets a bit steeper at this point. At Chimney Pond, one mile farther, walk by the outhouses, lean-tos, and a ranger’s station to reach the pond (which you are not allowed to wade or swim in).

Saddle Trail, 1 mile — The first two-thirds of the trail pass through lovely forest and cross a stream. (At one point, you can hear the rushing water underneath the boulders you’re walking across.) Then get ready for a seriously steep climb, much of it over loose rock.

Dudley Trail, 0.9 mile — The trail branches off at Chimney Pond and continues through forest, before emerging onto Katahdin’s ubiquitous boulders and open vistas, with stunning views of Hamlin Ridge and the Basin. You’ll pass a spur to the Pamola Caves, and then return through woods, with magical, twisty trees. The trail then ascends steeply up, with some ladders to help. You’ll get great views of Chimney Pond and the ranger’s cabin. Once you get above the trees, it is all boulder scrambling. At xx miles, you’ll summit Pamola Peak, which is named after a Penobscot god. If you’re continuing along Knife’s Edge, the scramble down Pamola to the crevasse to reach the Chimney is steep and difficult.

Helon Taylor, 2.8 miles — It’s beautiful, after you come out of the trees you hike up a ridgeline to Pamola, and it is gorgeous, you’re hiking in the clouds.

Abol Trail — To come!

Hunt Trail — To come!

Hamlin Ridge Trail, 1.1 miles — To reach the trail, hike 2.3 miles along Chimney Pond Trail. At the first intersection, turn right. The trail begins to climb, with boulders. This section is about 0.6 miles before you reach the intersection to Blueberry Knoll (I’d say skip this view to save your legs). Turn left for 0.2 miles (a blessed flat respite from climbing), and then turn right to begin your hike up the boulder-y trail. Be prepared for 1.1 miles of arduous climbing—scrambling up boulders and being exposed to wind. The summit is interesting—a signpost has been plunked in the middle of a fairly large and flat alpine field, with very little here to block the wind. You’ll find windbreaks a little south of the summit, back along the Ridge Trail. You can continue here to Baxter Peak or to South and North Howe Peaks.

Baxter Peak cut-off — The cut-off is like the overlooked gem of Katahdin, it is not traveled much. It goes around the Tableland, and the alpine flora is beautiful and the flat rocks are ideal for napping if you’re tired.

Directions: Kathadin’s trail system in Baxter State Park is served by three major trailheads/campgrounds: Roaring Brook, Abol, and Katahdin Stream. You will need to book a reservation at one of these campsites weeks or months in advance, especially if you want to hike the mountain during summertime and early fall weekends. If you are coming from outside the park, you will need to reserve a parking space at one of the day-use lots at these three campgrounds. Find a good map of the park — it’ll help a lot to orient yourself and figure out which route to take!